Parfenov Training

DYNO DRILL

Climbing

Movement Drills

Start on a good jug and two solid footholds at relatively the same height. Pick a hold above the starting jug, just slightly higher than your static reach. Practice the following three steps in order. Remember to keep your arms straight and drive through your legs.

  1. Start by jumping off the footholds and away from the wall. The goal here is not to aim for the finish hold, just to feel comfortable in the jumping position.
  2. Next, attempt to touch the finish hold, anywhere on the hold. The goal is to begin directing your momentum in a specific direction.
  3. Once you have this dialed, start attempting to actually grab the hold. At this point, contact strength (the ability to latch onto holds dynamically) will also come into play.

Practice each step as many times as needed until you feel comfortable with that specific dyno. Move on to another dyno if you want more practice!