Parfenov Training

Max Hangs

Hangboard

Max Hangs

Max hangs increase finger strength using near-maximal weights and long rest intervals. Use two grips: one open-crimp and one half-crimp. For each grip use a weight with which you can hang with for 13 seconds, or at an RPE of 7-8.5 (2-3 seconds left in the tank at the end of each hang). For each grip you will have the following work/rest structure:

10s hang/5 min rest

10s hang/5 min rest

10s hang/5 min rest

Perform one set for each grip and rest 3-5 min between grips. Make sure to warm up into your working weights, starting with bodyweight hangs. Do this workout once per week and leave at least 6 hours between hangboarding and limit climbing sessions. Progress by increasing weight incrementally each week (usually 1-4 kg jumps), while sticking to the appropriate RPE range. If your prescribed weight produces an RPE >8.5, drop the weight. You are both lowering the efficacy of the workout and increasing risk and recovery time. Run this protocol for 6-8 weeks, then do a deload week at 50% of your last working weight. You can also experiment with shorter hang intervals, 4-8 seconds. Just keep total time under tension at about 30 seconds. So if you are doing 5-second hangs, do five hangs instead of three.