Parfenov Training

ROUTE REPEATS

Climbing

Endurance Drills

3 sets with 10 min rests. Variation on limit routes. Get on a difficult route that you can climb at least halfway. Climb until you fall or pump out, lower and retie as fast as possible, then climb again from the ground and go until you fall. Add a third round if you’re feeling ambitious!

Pick a route on a lead wall 2-3 grades below your redpoint, preferably one that is sustained with no bouldery cruxes. You can do this drill on lead or top rope, but remember to pull the rope through every round if you are leading. Climb to the first bolt, then lower down. Climb to the second bolt, then lower again. Repeat this process until you reach the anchors. Try to minimize time spent on the ground. If you are leading, use a shorter rope and have your belayer pull it through the long end, so you don’t have to untie and rethread. If you fall, shake out for 10-20 seconds and attempt to finish the lap. If you fall again, lower to the ground and add an extra 60 seconds rest on the ground. If bolts are very close together (<1 meter), you can do every other bolt. Use your discretion— the goal is to get pumped!