Parfenov Training

To hang or not to hang…

Hangboard

To hang or not to hang...

There are a lot of misconceptions surrounding hangboarding. One of the most common things I hear from new clients is, “I hear hangboarding is dangerous.” While it’s true that no training is without risk, hangboarding, when done correctly and with proper dosing, is actually safer than climbing. Think of hangboarding as the lab experiment and climbing as the field experiment. Hangboarding is more controlled and stable, and there’s no risk of catching a hold awkwardly or having a foot slip, which can happen in climbing. So while there is inherent risk, hangboarding isn’t any more dangerous than your typical climbing session.

Another misconception is the idea of arbitrary guidelines for when you should start hangboarding (like needing to climb a certain grade or climb for a certain number of years). These guidelines are mostly made up and not rooted in science. Some people claim you need at least two years of climbing experience before starting a hangboard protocol, but in reality, it largely depends on the individual athlete. Everyone’s progression and readiness vary, so there’s no one-size-fits-all rule.

So how do you know if you are ready for a hangboard program?

 

If you’ve been climbing consistently for several months and have started to plateau in progress, with no current or recurring finger injuries, it might be time to consider starting a hangboard cycle. A good sign that you’re ready is if you’re comfortable hanging off a 20-30mm edge in an open crimp position, and you’re willing to commit to learning autoregulation (adjusting your training intensity based on how your body feels) and tracking your workouts and Rate of Perceived Exertion (RPE). If you’re not up for keeping a workout journal or tracking your progress, then you’re probably not ready for hangboard training just yet.

When it comes to choosing which hangboarding protocol to follow, it’s important to start with something manageable. I’d recommend starting with repeaters for 6-8 weeks. This protocol is a great introduction and helps you get used to training consistently 1-2 times per week, while getting familiar with RPE. After that, you can gradually move on to something more intense, like max hangs. Additionally, if you’re new to crimping, it’s best to stick with the open crimp position. Don’t jump into half or full crimping until you have more experience.