Generated by All in One SEO v5.0.1.1, this is an llms.txt file, used by LLMs to index the site. # Parfenov Training ## Sitemaps - [XML Sitemap](https://parfenovtraining.com/sitemap.xml): Contains all public & indexable URLs for this website. ## Posts - [Secret Skincare Routine for Climbers](https://parfenovtraining.com/secret-skincare-routine-for-climbers/) - Have you ever had a climbing training session where you felt like you were floating up the wall (low gravity days, as we call them) and could climb forever...except your skin had other ideas? Yup...THE WORST. I mean, I can accept ending a session when my biceps are too fatigued, when my lats are disengaging, - [HOME GYM TOUR | 10 Things Every Climber Needs!](https://parfenovtraining.com/home-gym-tour-10-things-every-climber-needs/) - [Help! I'm Stuck at 3 Pull-Ups](https://parfenovtraining.com/help-im-stuck-at-3-pull-ups/) - I recently had a former client reach out to me with a question regarding pull-up plateaus. She wrote: “I am stuck at sets of 3. (I can do five, but then get too fatigued to repeat sets). I take a long rest, then another set of 3...I’m working at about 20-25 a day (3x a ## Pages - [Home](https://parfenovtraining.com/) - Affordable online climbing coaching with professional climber Galina Parfenov! Boost strength and improve form, from beginner to advanced levels! - [Athlete Forms](https://parfenovtraining.com/athlete-forms/) - Access and complete all necessary form like climbing background, liability release, and more, to get started with your online climbing training with Parfenov! - [Store](https://parfenovtraining.com/store/) - Shop the Parfenov Training store for merchandise, equipment, and training accessories. 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Find the perfect program and online climbing coach for your goals! - [Shop](https://parfenovtraining.com/shop/) - Checkout Parfenov Training shop for merchandise, equipment, and accessories for your online climbing training! ## Products - [Hip Thrusters](https://parfenovtraining.com/product/hip-thrusters/) - The goal of this drill is to begin to utilize hip drive and momentum, rather than upper body strength, to propel yourself on bigger dynamic moves. This drill is best done on an overhanging wall (35-50*) or Kilter Board. Find a climb with big holds and big moves, preferably 2-3 grades below your redpoint. Climb it once how you normally would. Rest 3-5 minutes and repeat, this time utilizing hip drive. For each hand movement you make, think about generating with your hips by sagging then pulling up in the direction opposite the hand trajectory. For example, if you are throwing “northeast” with your right hand, your hips should move along the “southwest” trajectory. Try to do this for every bigger hand movement while utilizing as little upper body strength as possible. Repeat with 1-3 more climbs and try to get the movement pattern feeling more natural. - [Gift Card](https://parfenovtraining.com/product/gift-card/) - [Deadlift](https://parfenovtraining.com/product/deadlifting-5-steps-to-a-perfect-deadlift/) - Deadlifting : 5 Steps to a Perfect Deadlift Manual - [Hangboard](https://parfenovtraining.com/product/hangboarding-3-protocols-for-climbers/) - Hangboarding: 3 Protocols for Climbers Manual - [1 Week](https://parfenovtraining.com/product/one-week/) - -100% custom programming based on preliminary questionnaire -access to True Coach and Training Manual -daily form feedback for climbing + training sessions based on client videos -24/7 messaging -for clients interested in trying the True Coach app - [4 Weeks](https://parfenovtraining.com/product/4-weeks/) - -100% custom programming based on preliminary questionnaire + onboarding call -access to True Coach and Training Manual -programming updated at the end of each week to reflect workout results -daily form feedback for climbing + training sessions based on client videos -24/7 messaging -for clients interested in long term training, but not yet ready to commit - [Monthly Sub](https://parfenovtraining.com/product/monthly-membership/) - -monthly subscription through True Coach, 3 month minimum -100% custom programming based on preliminary questionnaire + onboarding call -access to True Coach and Training Manual -programming updated at the end of each week to reflect workout results -daily form feedback for climbing + training sessions based on client videos -24/7 messaging with optional monthly calls -for clients looking to build a client-coach relationship and improve their climbing in the long term - [1 Session](https://parfenovtraining.com/product/zoom-lesson-1-session/) - 60 min one-on-one video session with coach require home gym or home wall access best for working on climbing specific technique and lifting technique good option for youth clients - [Monthly Sub](https://parfenovtraining.com/product/zoom-lesson-monthly-subscription/) - 60 min one-on-one video session with coach require home gym or home wall access best for working on climbing specific technique and lifting technique good option for youth clients ## Brochures - [Movement Drills](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/movement-drills/) - ClimbingMovement Drills POWER CLIMBING Watch the video below. This is the opposite of SLOTH CLIMBING. The goal of this drill is to climb dynamically with maximum power and efficiency (not to be confused with sloppy climbing). Choose climbs a few grades below your redpoint ability. Climb each one 1–2 times as quickly and smoothly as - [BENCH PRESS](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/bench-press/) - StrengthBENCH PRESS The bench press is the more popular sibling of the overhead press, mainly because you can lift more weight due to the decreased range of motion and increased leg drive. It targets the pectoral muscles more, in addition to the triceps, front deltoids, and rotator cuff muscles. It complements the overhead press well - [Bandwork (YTWL)](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/bandwork-ytwl/) - Warm-UpBandwork (YTWL) - [Sequences](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/sequences-2-2-2/) - Campus BoardSequences - [Sequences](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/sequences-1-2-1/) - Campus BoardSequences - [Sequences](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/sequences-1-2-0/) - Campus BoardSequences - [Sequences](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/sequences/) - Campus BoardSequences - [Ladders](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/ladders/) - Campus BoardLadders Start matched on a rung you can comfortably reach. Campus all the way up using every rung, only matching the top and bottom rungs. Variation: campus up and down using every rung. Do 1-2 ladders for a warm-up. - [ROOTING: HEELHOOKS](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/rooting-heelhooks/) - ClimbingFootwork Drills ROOTING: HEELHOOKS 5-10 min. Pick a heelhook on an overhanging wall. Try to make as many moves as possible, both upwards and laterally, keeping your heel in contact with the hold and flagging the other leg. Focus on engaging your entire leg, not just your calf. Really push the limit in terms of - [ROOTING](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/rooting/) - ClimbingFootwork Drills ROOTING 5-10 min. The goal is to improve your ability to generate foot tension and become more aware of your footwork. Pick a foothold on a gently overhanging wall (20-40* or Kilter Board). Try to make as many moves as possible, both upwards and laterally, keeping the foot in contact with the hold. - [Footwork Drills](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/footwork-drills/) - ClimbingFootwork Drills “SQUASH THE BUG” 3–5 climbs, 3–4 grades below redpoint. Footwork drill! For each foot move, place your foot down precisely (big toe on the best part of the hold), then do a quarter rotation to either side (“squash the bug”), digging your toe even more into the foothold and increasing friction between the - [PERFECT MATCH](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/perfect-match/) - ClimbingFootwork Drills PERFECT MATCH The goal is to maximize foot tension on every move and every foothold. Pick 3-5 climbs a few grades below your redpoint ability.2-3 climbs, 3-4 grades below redpoint. Choose three climbs you have done before and are comfortable climbing. For each foot movement you make, match feet twice, so you end - [HEELHOOK DRILL](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/heelhook-drill/) - ClimbingFootwork Drills HEELHOOK DRILL 3-5 climbs, 3-4 grades below redpoint. Choose climbs on overhanging walls (30-60*). The goal is to do as many heelhooks as possible on each climb. Try to turn as many footholds as possible into heels, even if it doesn’t necessarily make sense to heelhook there. Don’t just place your heel on - [STICKY TOES](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/sticky-toes/) - ClimbingFootwork Drills STICKY TOES The goal is to maximize foot tension on every move and every foothold. Pick 3-5 climbs a few grades below your redpoint ability. One rule: wherever your foot first touches a hold, you must keep it in that position to do the next move (you ARE allowed to pivot). Pretend that - [LASER FEET](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/laser-feet/) - ClimbingFootwork Drills LASER FEET 5-10 min. Pick an overhanging wall (20-50*). Choose a juggy handhold (or two side-by-side jugs). Place your feet on two footholds beneath you. WIth all four limbs on the wall, fix your sight on another foothold. Using as much control as possible cut feet away from the wall and place one - [FOOT TENSION CHALLENGE](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/foot-tension-challenge/) - ClimbingFootwork Drills FOOT TENSION CHALLENGE 15-20 min, climbs 3-4 grades below redpoint. Footwork drill! Do this on steeper (30-60*) gym climbs or on a systems wall. The goal is to start to understand the difference between active footwork and passive footwork. Think of your feet as hands and visualize pulling onto each foothold, as you - [ONE FOOT, TWO FEET](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/one-foot-two-feet/) - ClimbingMovement Drills ONE FOOT, TWO FEET Pick 2–3 climbs in a range of styles and angles, 2–4 grades below your redpoint. Climb each one twice using the following methods: 1) One-foot: Try to make each hand movement while keeping just one foot on the wall. Use flagging (back flag, inside flag, etc.) to shift your - [STICKY HANDS](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/sticky-hands/) - ClimbingMovement Drills STICKY HANDS Pick 3–5 climbs a few grades below your redpoint ability. One rule: wherever your hand first touches a hold, you must keep it in that position to do the next move (you ARE allowed to match). Pretend that it is superglued to the hold. Focus on catching holds precisely on the - [UNDERCLING TRAINER](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/undercling-trainer/) - ClimbingMovement Drills UNDERCLING TRAINER 3–5 rounds with 1–2′ rest. Find a good juggy undercling (or two adjacent underclings, one for each hand) and start with your feet on two footholds below. Walk your feet left to right and up and down, including smearing, while maintaining tension on the undercling. See how far you can move - [HIP OPENERS](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/hip-openers/) - ClimbingMovement Drills HIP OPENERS Pick 5 climbs a few grades below your redpoint ability. Climb each one with knees turned out (KTO) and hips square to the wall on every move. No drop knees! CONTRAST WARM-UP Pick 2 climbs a few grades below your redpoint ability. Climb each one three times with: Regular technique Straight - [STRAIGHT ARMS & DROP KNEES](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/straight-arms-drop-knees/) - ClimbingMovement Drills STRAIGHT ARMS & DROP KNEES Pick 5 climbs a few grades below your redpoint ability. Climb each one using as many drop knees as possible to keep your arms as straight as possible. Remember to reach with the arm on the same side as the knee you turned down and to turn that - [HIP THRUSTERS](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/hip-thrusters-2/) - ClimbingMovement Drills HIP THRUSTERS The goal of this drill is to begin using hip drive and momentum, rather than upper body strength, to propel yourself on bigger dynamic moves. This drill is best done on an overhanging wall (35–50°) or a Kilter Board. Find a climb with big holds and moves, ideally 2–3 grades below - [POWER SNATCHES](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/power-snatches/) - ClimbingMovement Drills POWER SNATCHES 5–10 minutes. On an overhanging (40–50°) or systems wall with feet on the ground, grab a good hold at or above eye level. Simultaneously pull on that hold, jump off the ground, and catch another higher hold with your free hand. Try to hold that locked-off position for a second. Repeat - [HOVERS](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/hovers/) - ClimbingMovement Drills HOVERS 3×3 with 3″ hover and 1′ rest after each side 3 sets per side. For each set, place your opposite hand and opposite foot on the wall. Choose a non-jug handhold and a relatively good foothold. Lock-off at chest level and hover in that position for 3 seconds. Repeat two more times. - [TRIPLE THREAT WARM-UP](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/triple-threat-warm-up/) - ClimbingMovement Drills TRIPLE THREAT WARM-UP 3 climbs (9 laps total). Easy warm-up climbs. Climb each climb three times, with 1–2 minute rests in between laps. Lap 1: normal climbing Lap 2: sloth climbing Lap 3: power climbing ELIMINATOR 2 climbs, at least 3 grades below your redpoint. For each climb, climb once normally, then 2–3 - [HOVERING](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/hovering/) - ClimbingMovement Drills HOVERING A variation of sloth climbing, the goal of this drill is to improve lock-off strength (the ability to reach the next hold in a controlled manner). Choose 2–4 climbs a few grades below your redpoint limit. Climb each one 1–2 times with 2–3 minute rests. Follow similar rules to sloth climbing: Control - [SLOTH CLIMBING](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/sloth-climbing/) - ClimbingMovement Drills SLOTH CLIMBING Watch the video below. This is the opposite of POWER CLIMBING. The goal of this drill is to improve lock-off strength (the ability to reach the next hold in a controlled manner). Choose climbs a few grades below your redpoint limit. Climb each one 1–2 times with 3–5 minute rests in - [Fingers Rice Bucket](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/fingers-rice-bucket/) - PrehabFingers FOAM ROLLER Fill a five-gallon bucket with 10–15 kg of rice. Do 15–25 reps of the following exercises: - [Warm-Up Dynamic Stretching](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/warm-up-dynamic-stretching/) - Warm-UpDynamic Stretching - [Dynamic Stretching](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/dynamic-stretching/) - Warm-UpDynamic Stretching Dynamic stretches are utilized instead of traditional static stretches because they have been shown to be safer and more effective due to their temperature-raising properties. Any combination of stretches can be done, however an emphasis should be placed on the lats, low back, and hamstrings. Pick 5-8 of these exercises and repeat for - [Cardio HIIT](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/cardio-hiit/) - CardioHIIT HIGH INTENSITY INTERVAL TRAINING The role and importance of cardio in climbing training vary largely depending on your goals, baseline, and type of climbing. If you are primarily a boulderer and in generally good shape, you likely don’t need additional cardio. If you are a sport climber interested in steep endurance routes, you may - [CARDIO](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/cardio/) - Parfenov Training SECTION 8 CARDIO Parfenov Training Manual - [TRX Core](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/trx-core/) - ConditioningTRX Core TRX is a great minimalist option to supplement your bodyweight core and upper body routines. You can purchase (or make) a TRX-style trainer online for under $60. There are many options available on Amazon, such as this: https://a.co/d/fOmBbvV You can also use a pair of gymnastics rings attached to long slings. Adjust TRX - [CONDITIONING](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/conditioning/) - Parfenov Training SECTION 7 CONDITIONING Parfenov Training Manual - [BAR PATH](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/bar-path-3/) - StrengthBENCH PRESS BAR PATH Take another deep breath in using the Valsalva maneuver and hold it throughout the duration of the rep. Bring the bar down quickly and with full control—do not drop the weight. Think about bending the bar on the way down by tucking your elbows slightly when in the hole. Try to - [UNRACKING](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/unracking-4/) - StrengthBENCH PRESS UNRACKING Now place your butt on the bench, keeping a slight arch in your back. Do not place your back flat against the bench, as this is not a neutral or safe position. Next, place your feet flat on the ground in a position that allows you to maximize leg drive. The farther - [UNRACKING](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/unracking-3/) - StrengthBENCH PRESS UNRACKING After setting your grip, lift your butt off the bench so that only your feet and shoulder blades are in contact with the bench. Squeeze your shoulder blades together and slide 4-5 cm forward so that your head is completely on the bench and your shoulders are just barely past the bar. - [HAND POSITION](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/hand-position-3/) - StrengthBENCH PRESS HAND POSITION To set your grip, first wrap your fingers around the bar, then your thumbs. Do not let the bar rotate in your hands. This order is important because it ensures the bar is set in the palm of your hand rather than your fingertips, allowing your wrists to stay in a - [BENCH PRESS HAND POSITION](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/bench-press-hand-position/) - StrengthBENCH PRESS HAND POSITION The grip here is very similar to the overhead press, except that you’re lying down on the bench, which makes it a bit more awkward to set up. If you’re unfamiliar with the overhead press grip, practice that first. Lie down on the bench with your head approximately 2 cm off - [BENCH PRESS RACK POSITION](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/bench-press-rack-position/) - StrengthBENCH PRESS RACK POSITION In a squat rack or stand, position the J-cups at about belly button height, so they are low enough to clear easily when unracking, but not so low that it takes extra effort. The rack position depends on arm length, grip width, and bench height, and may require some tweaking to - [BAR PATH](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/bar-path/) - StrengthOVERHEAD PRESS BAR PATH For any lift, the most efficient bar path is vertical. However, if you were to move the bar from the bottom position (resting on your front delts) to the top (arms extended above your head), it would pass through your chin. As such, try to skim your nose and move the - [HAND POSITION](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/hand-position-2/) - StrengthOVERHEAD PRESS HAND POSITION The order is important because it ensures the bar is set in the palm of your hand rather than your fingertips, keeping your wrists in a neutral position throughout the lift. From here on, squeeze the bar and keep it from rotating in your hands. - [HAND Grip POSITION](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/hand-grip-position/) - StrengthOVERHEAD PRESS HAND POSITION To set your grip, first wrap your fingers around the bar, then your thumbs. Do not let the bar rotate in your hands. - [OVERHEAD PRESS HAND POSITION](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/overhead-press-hand-position/) - StrengthOVERHEAD PRESS HAND POSITION To set your grip, first wrap your fingers around the bar, then your thumbs. Do not let the bar rotate in your hands. This order is important because it ensures the bar is set in the palm of your hand rather than your fingertips, allowing your wrists to remain in a - [HAND POSITION](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/hand-position/) - StrengthOVERHEAD PRESS HAND POSITION In a squat rack or stand, position the J-cups at chest height, ensuring they are low enough to clear easily when unracking but not so low that it takes extra effort to unrack the bar. Stand 6-8 inches away from the bar. Measure your hand width by positioning your index fingers - [RACK POSITION](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/rack-position/) - StrengthOVERHEAD PRESS RACK POSITION In a squat rack or stand, position the J-cups at chest height, ensuring they are low enough to clear easily when unracking but not so low that it takes extra effort to unrack the bar. J-cup - [PULL-UP](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/pull-up-2/) - StrengthPULL-UP WIDE GRIP 2. PULL-UP Cross your legs and squeeze your glutes, keeping your lower body as rigid as possible. Keep your chest up and bring it in a vertical path to the bar—don’t bring your chin to the bar. You should feel the movement mainly in your lats and upper back; if you feel - [SCAP PULL](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/scap-pull/) - StrengthPULL-UP WIDE GRIP 1. SCAP PULL Before you pull up, lean back and engage your scapula by squeezing them together and pressing your shoulders down toward the ground. - [PULL-UP](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/pull-up/) - StrengthPULL-UP WIDE GRIP OVERVIEW When done properly, pull-ups are a great way to strengthen the lats and the weak mid-upper back muscles (traps and rhomboids) that climbers often lack. Improper form, however, can lead to overdeveloped biceps and elbow tendonitis. Always start in a relaxed position with your grip a couple inches outside shoulder width, - [Strength Deadlift](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/strength-deadlift/) - StrengthDeadlift SOME USEFUL CUES CHEST UP COVER ARMPITS WITH TRICEPS PULL BAR INTO SHINS PUSH THROUGH THE FLOOR - [DEADLIFT 4](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/deadlift-4/) - StrengthDEADLIFT 5 STEPS TO A PERFECT CHEST UP Once your grip is established and your shins are touching the bar, squeeze your chest up and cover your armpits with your triceps. Your entire back should be tight and slightly extended. Keep your eyes fixed on a point 1-2 meters in front of you on the - [DEADLIFT 5](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/deadlift-5/) - StrengthDEADLIFT 5 STEPS TO A PERFECT PUSH Shift your weight from your toes to your midfoot to engage your hamstrings. Inhale using the Valsalva maneuver and push through the floor with your feet. The bar will break the floor and travel upward. Make sure the bar stays in contact with your legs all the way - [DEADLIFT 3](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/deadlift-3/) - StrengthDEADLIFT 5 STEPS TO A PERFECT KNEES FORWARD Once your grip is secure, bend your knees and drop them forward until they touch the bar. Make sure not to move the bar. Keep your hips high and push your knees out so they touch your inner elbows. At this point, your midfoot, the bar, and - [DEADLIFT 2](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/deadlift-2/) - StrengthDEADLIFT 5 STEPS TO A PERFECT GRIP Bend at the waist to hinge over, keeping your hips high and legs stiff. Grab the bar just outside your legs, with your thumbs almost touching them. Make sure not to move the bar as you reach for it. Use either a double-overhand grip or a hook grip - [DEADLIFT](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/deadlift/) - StrengthDEADLIFT 5 STEPS TO A PERFECT STANCE The deadlift is performed from the floor and does not require a rack. Use bumper plates to maintain the same range of motion regardless of weight. Stand with your feet about hip-width apart, toes slightly pointed out. The bar should be 2–3 cm from your shins, positioned directly - [STRENGTH](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/strength/) - Parfenov Training SECTION 6 STRENGTH Parfenov Training Manual - [Pinch Block](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/pinch-block/) - HangboardPinch Block Pinch blocks are easy to make from three 2x4s (note: for people with smaller hands, this might be too wide, and you might want to opt for a thinner piece of plywood in the middle instead). Make sure to either use a nail gun or conceal any connecting screws, so there is no - [Types of Grips](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/types-of-grips/) - HangboardTypes of Grip There is no right or wrong way of gripping a hold. Whatever works best. But for training purposes, it is important to pay attention to hand position, particularly whether or not the index finger is in flexion or extension. Unless otherwise specified, the thumb should never go over the index finger or - [TRAVERSING](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/traversing/) - ClimbingFootwork Drills TRAVERSING Pick a vertical or slabby wall that spans between 10 and 30 feet. Traverse back and forth (take breaks in between, this is not an endurance exercise) on easy terrain. Focus on staying on your feet and minimizing upper body involvement. Unless the grip is a two-hand jug, try not to match - [ROOTING: BICYCLES](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/rooting-bicycles/) - ClimbingFootwork Drills ROOTING: BICYCLES 10 min. A bicycle is when you create tension between your feet by using a toe on one side and toehook on the other. The bicycle is a stabilizing technique good for steeper walls, when you are either working with poor footholds or want to take weight off your hands. There - [DYNO CHALLENGE!](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/dyno-challenge/) - ClimbingMovement Drills DYNO CHALLENGE! Choose four different walls. On each wall, set a dyno of moderate difficulty that you can complete within a handful of tries. Feel free to experiment with double dynos, paddles, etc. If your gym has preset dynos, you can use those as well. Focus on: Driving with your legs Keeping arms - [DYNO DRILL](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/dyno-drill/) - ClimbingMovement Drills DYNO DRILL Start on a good jug and two solid footholds at relatively the same height. Pick a hold above the starting jug, just slightly higher than your static reach. Practice the following three steps in order. Remember to keep your arms straight and drive through your legs. Start by jumping off the - [POGO DRILL II](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/pogo-drill-ii/) - ClimbingMovement Drills POGO DRILL II Watch the video below and practice these three steps: Counter movement The kick Moment of suspension Pick 3 steep (30–50°) climbs, 3–4 grades below your redpoint. Do each one using a pogo for every hand move (it might help to skip some handholds!). Some moves may feel awkward and contrived, - [POGO DRILL](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/pogo-drill/) - ClimbingMovement Drills POGO DRILL Pick an overhanging wall and practice the three steps in the attached video: Counter movement The kick Moment of suspension - [Climbing Skills & Drills](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/climbing-skills-drills/) - ClimbingSkills & Drills VOLUME BOULDERS This is NOT endurance training but an opportunity to focus on technique and movement on moderately difficult climbs. The goal is to complete as many climbs as possible with perfect form within 60 minutes. You can do climbs in sets of 2–3 for an added pump. Work within a grade - [Skills & Drills](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/skills-drills/) - ClimbingSkills & Drills WARM-UP Climbing-specific warm-ups should only begin after completing dynamic stretches and band exercises. The warm-up should be progressive, following a pyramid-style scheme (e.g., 4 V1, 3 V2, 2 V3, 1 V4 for a V5 climber). Start with juggy, dynamic climbing and finish with fingery, static climbing. Aim for a total of 10–25 - [Equipment Shoes](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/equipment-shoes/) - EquipmentShoes There are hundreds of climbing shoe models available today, making the choice daunting. Climbing shoes should fit tighter than street shoes and shouldn’t be comfortable for walking. Sizing should account for stretch, which can range from ¼ to 1 size depending on the model and material. There are two main types of shoes: aggressive - [CLIMBING](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/climbing/) - Parfenov Training CLIMBING SECTION 3 Parfenov Training Manual __________________________________________ - [Fingers Tendon Glides](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/fingers-tendon-glides/) - PrehabFingers TENDON GLIDES Do 5–10 reps per hand. - [Fingers](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/fingers/) - PrehabFingers Acupressure Rings Use to massage and break up scar tissue of finger pulleys. Use for 5–10 minutes at a time and focus on tender spots. VOODOO FLOSS Voodoo Floss works by concentrating blood in the target area (in this case, the pulley), helping to break down scar tissue faster. A thin sliver of a - [Prehab Wrists](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/prehab-wrists/) - PrehabWrists SEATED PRONATION Sit in a chair and rest your elbows on your thighs, keeping your shoulders in a neutral, relaxed position. Using either a unilateral dumbbell or a hammer, grab the unweighted side with your thumbs facing up and the dumbbell vertical. Rotate the dumbbell outward until it is horizontal and your thumb is - [Elbows (Floss)](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/elbows-floss/) - PrehabElbows (Floss) Voodoo Floss works by concentrating blood in the target area (in this case, the elbow), which allows us to get rid of scar tissue faster. Use the 7’ band. Wrap upward from forearm to tricep Wrap with 50 to 85% tension Wrap over the joint and tuck the end of the wrap underneath - [Elbows (FlexBar)](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/elbows-flexbar/) - PrehabElbows (FlexBar) The FlexBar utilizes three main movements: bending, twisting, and oscillating. Using a FlexBar for the Tyler Twist exercise has been shown to reduce elbow pain by 81 percent. 1 Grab the FlexBar in front of you with the injured side and extend your wrist. 2 Grab the upper end of the bar with - [REVERSE FLY](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/reverse-fly/) - PrehabShoulders REVERSE FLY Start in a bent-over position (similar to the start of a conventional deadlift) with dumbbells hanging straight down. Brace your core and keep your back neutral. While keeping a slight bend in your elbows, raise the dumbbells to the side until your arms are parallel to the floor. Lower back down in - [PREHAB](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/prehab/) - Parfenov Training PREHAB SECTION 2 Parfenov Training Manual __________________________________________ - [Static Stretching FOAM ROLLER](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/static-stretching-foam-roller/) - Warm-UpStatic Stretching FOAM ROLLER Lie on your back on a foam roller with your head and tailbone completely on the roller. Keep your lower back flat against the roller (you should not be able to slide your hand between your lower back and the roller) and your feet flat on the ground. Start with your - [Static Stretching](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/static-stretching/) - Warm-UpStatic Stretching Stand in a doorway with your inner forearm pressed flat against the doorframe. Keep your elbow just above your shoulder and your hips square. Step forward with the same-side leg and rotate externally about the shoulder. Make sure your hips remain square and your body stays facing front. Hold this position for approximately - [Finger Flicks + Scap Pulls](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/finger-flicks-scap-pulls/) - Warm-UpDynamic Stretching Finger Flicks + Scap Pulls - [WARMup](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/warmup/) - Parfenov Training WARMup SECTION 1 Parfenov Training Manual - [Autoregulation & the RPE Scale](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/autoregulation-the-rpe-scale-2/) - Keeping a Workout JournalAutoregulation & the RPE Scale Don’t worry, I will do all the adjustments for you. Just write down your RPEs for each working set. For most exercises in the “Strength” section of the GPT Manual, your goal will be RPE 6.5-8.5 for your working sets. For most exercises in the “Conditioning” section, - [RPE Scale (Time-Based)](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/rpe-scale-time-based/) - Time-BasedRPE Scale Try to get a sense for how much longer you could have hung for at the end of each hang/set. Initially it t will feel like you are making up numbers, however over time you will be able to get fairly close to your actual max. Target RPE range will vary depending on - [RPE Scale](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/rpe-scale/) - Rep-BasedRPE Scale Try to get a sense for how many reps you could have done at the end of each set. Initially it t will feel like you are making up numbers, however over time you will be able to get fairly close to your actual max. Target RPE range will vary depending on the - [Tempo Sets](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/tempo-sets/) - Reading Your CalendarTempo Sets All exercises, unless otherwise noted, are done with the following tempo: 10×0 What in the world does that mean? Let’s break it down: 1 eccentric (negative) phase of the movement 0 bottom of the eccentric phase of the movement X concentric phase of the movement (in this case X = explosive - [Training Manual](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/training-manual/) - Parfenov Training Training Manual 2025 Edition LET’s GET STARTED www.ParfenovTraining.com - [TRX Upper](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/trx-upper/) - ConditioningTRX Upper PUSH-UP PUSH-UP FLY FLY REVERSE FLY REVERSE FLY - [TRX Core SIDE CRUNCH](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/trx-core-side-crunch/) - ConditioningTRX Core SIDE CRUNCH SIDE CRUNCH PIKE PIKE BODY SAW BODY SAW - [TRX Core](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/trx-core-2/) - ConditioningTRX Core PLANK PLANK SIDE PLANK SIDE PLANK CRUNCH CRUNCH - [Push-Ups](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/push-ups/) - ConditioningPush-Ups PIKE PIKE FORWARD LEAN FORWARD LEAN PSEUDO PLANCHE PSEUDO PLANCHE - [Dragon Flags](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/dragon-flags/) - ConditioningDragon Flags SINGLE-LEG FLAG single leg DRAGON FLAG dragon flag - [COMPRESSION STRADDLE](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/compression-straddle/) - ConditioningCompression Core COMPRESSION STRADDLE Place your fingertips by your knees and raise your legs in a straddle position. Think about bringing your knees to your chest. Do a single leg variation if two legs is too difficult. If you find yourself leaning back use a wall. Variations: -pulses (pulse in upper 10% of range of - [Compression Core](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/compression-core/) - ConditioningCompression Core COMPRESSION L SIT Place your fingertips by your knees and raise your legs together. Think about bringing your knees to your chest. Do a single leg variation if two legs is too difficult. If you find yourself leaning back use a wall. Variations: -box compression L sit -pulses (pulse in upper 10% of - [Front Lever FROG](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/front-lever-frog/) - ConditioningFront Lever FROG FROG STRADDLE STRADDLE FRONT LEVER FRONT LEVER - [Front Lever](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/front-lever/) - ConditioningFront Lever TUCK TUCK ADVANCED TUCK ADVANCED TUCK SINGLE LEG SINGLE LEG - [Bar Core](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/bar-core/) - ConditioningCore KNEE RAISE KNEE RAISE LEG RAISE LEG RAISE TOES-TO-BAR (TTB) TOES-TO-BAR (TTB) - [Obliques](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/obliques/) - ConditioningObliques WINDSHIELF WIPER WINDSHIELF WIPER PLATE TWIST PLATE TWIST PLATE TWIST PLATE TWIST - [Core TOE TOUCH](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/core-toe-touch/) - ConditioningCore TOE TOUCH TOE TOUCH SUITCASE CRUNCH SUITCASE CRUNCH BOTTOM-UP BOTTOM-UP - [Core N-UP](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/core-n-up/) - ConditioningCore N-UP N-UP V-UP V-UP SUPERMAN SUPERMAN - [Core](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/core/) - ConditioningCore WEIGHTED PLANK Focus on keeping shoulder blades protracted and maintaining posterior pelvic tilt by tucking your tailbone and sucking your belly button into your spine until you feel the arch in your lower back disappear. Place plates on your mid-upper back to add weight. CORE CORE - [BAR PATH](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/bar-path-2/) - StrengthBENCH PRESS BAR PATH For any lift, the most efficient bar path is vertical. However, moving the bar straight down from the top position (directly above the shoulders) would result in impingement due to the firm contact between your shoulder blades and the bench. To account for anatomical constraints, we must allow for a slight - [UNRACKING](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/unracking-5/) - StrengthBENCH PRESS UNRACKING Keep your eyes fixed on a point straight up on the ceiling. The bar should remain blurry in the foreground. Keep your chest up and squeeze your shoulder blades together. Take a deep breath in (see Valsalva Maneuver) and unrack the bar with straight arms. In the starting position, the bar should - [UNRACKING](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/unracking-2/) - StrengthOVERHEAD PRESS UNRACKING Take three steps to clear the rack: back, side, side. The first step back should be with your dominant foot. The last step is just a slight adjustment to align your feet. Your feet should be slightly wider than shoulder-width, toes slightly turned out, and knees locked. For this exercise, you will - [UNRACKING](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/unracking/) - StrengthOVERHEAD PRESS UNRACKING After setting your grip, step all the way into the bar and rotate it so your elbows are perpendicular to and under the bar. Keep your chest up and squeeze your shoulder blades together. Take a deep breath in (see Valsalva Maneuver) and unrack the bar. The bar should almost rest on - [OVERHEAD PRESS](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/overhead-press/) - StrengthOVERHEAD PRESS The overhead press, while not one of the Big 3 powerlifting movements, is perhaps the most effective push movement for climbers due to its engagement of the rotator cuff muscles in the overhead position. There are a few variations of the barbell press, including those that generate force through the posterior chain, whether - [Adding Weight](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/adding-weight-2/) - Pull-UpAdding Weight Use bands, an assisted pull-up machine, a pulley, or a partner to reduce weight. Use a harness and a sling with a carabiner to add weight (see Hangboard: Adding Weight). Hands slightly wider than shoulder width Pronated grip (palms facing away from your body) Thumbs on top of the bar Retract shoulder blades - [Strength Valsalva Maneuver](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/strength-valsalva-maneuver/) - StrengthValsalva Maneuver LIFTING APPLICATIONS You should perform a Valsalva breath at the start of every rep. For example, when squatting, inhale at the top and hold your breath for the entire rep, then release and reset once you’re standing again. For an overhead press, inhale when the bar is resting on your anterior deltoids, then - [Valsalva Maneuver](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/valsalva-maneuver/) - StrengthValsalva Maneuver The Valsalva maneuver is the breathing technique you should use for all compound lifts. It is the single most important technique you will learn, as it protects your spine and allows you to lift heavier weights (and get stronger!). Simply put, the Valsalva maneuver involves holding your breath against a closed glottis while - [Strength Equipment](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/strength-equipment/) - StrengthEquipment SHOES Always wear flat, hard-soled shoes (think Converse, Vans, Keds, etc.), not soft-soled running shoes. If you don’t have hard-soled shoes, you can lift barefoot. Wearing soft-soled shoes will cause some of the energy you generate to be absorbed by the sole. Squat shoes are also appropriate for squats and bench press. CHALK If - [Equipment](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/equipment/) - StrengthEquipment BARBELL A standard barbell weighs either 20 kg (44 lbs) or 45 lbs. Your gym probably has a standard barbell, but in case you’re wondering, most are 28-29 mm in diameter and 86-87 inches long. If you’re buying your own, I’d suggest either a Texas Power Bar or a Rogue Ohio Power Bar. RACK - [Sequences](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/sequences-up-down-bumps/) - Campus BoardSequences UP-DOWN BUMPS Start matched on a rung you can comfortably reach. Bump one hand up, one rung at a time, to the highest rung you can control, then bump back down. Rest, then repeat with the other side. This is one set. MAX BUMPS Start matched on a rung you can comfortably reach. - [Sequences](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/sequences-max-match/) - Campus BoardSequences MAX MATCH Start matched on a rung you can comfortably reach. Throw and grab the highest rung you can reach, then match it. Rest, then repeat with the other side. This is one set. MAX TOUCH Start matched on a rung you can comfortably reach. Throw and tap the highest rung you can - [Sequences](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/sequences-up-down/) - Campus BoardSequences UP-DOWNS Start matched on a rung you can comfortably reach. Bump one hand up to the next rung, then back down. Repeat with the other hand, keeping your feet off the ground between sides. This is one set. For an additional challenge, try combining two sets into one superset. - [Campus Board](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/campus-board/) - Parfenov Training Campus Board SECTION 5 - [Recruitment Pulls](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/recruitment-pulls/) - HangboardRecruitment Pulls Recruitment pulls are a simple way to improve muscle fiber recruitment. The main difference between these and max hangs is that you are pulling down with one arm as hard as you can rather than hanging with two arms with weights attached. By trying hard (RPE 9-10) and pulling for 3-6 seconds, you - [Max Hangs](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/max-hangs/) - HangboardMax Hangs Max hangs increase finger strength using near-maximal weights and long rest intervals. Use two grips: one open-crimp and one half-crimp. For each grip use a weight with which you can hang with for 13 seconds, or at an RPE of 7-8.5 (2-3 seconds left in the tank at the end of each hang). - [Repeaters](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/repeaters/) - HangboardRepeaters Repeaters increase endurance using submaximal weights and limited rest intervals. Use three grips: one open-crimp, one half-crimp, and one open-hand/pocket/pinch. You should have no issues hanging onto these grips for upwards of 20-30 seconds. For each grip, you will have the following work/rest structure: 7s hang/3s rest 7s hang/3s rest 7s hang/3s rest 7s - [Adding Weight](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/adding-weight/) - HangboardAdding Weight To add weight for hangboarding, you can hang plates off a harness using a sling and carabiner. If you don’t have weight plates, an easy alternative is to put some weights or everyday objects (like books, bags of rice, or water bottles) in a sturdy backpack and either hang it from the harness - [Proper Posture](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/proper-posture/) - HangboardProper Posture When hangboarding, there are a few key things to keep in mind. A common misconception is that you need to keep a slight bend in your elbows while hanging. In reality, you can keep your arms straight without worrying about hyperextension. Straight arms will help you engage your lats and transfer more load - [To hang or not to hang...](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/to-hang-or-not-to-hang/) - HangboardTo hang or not to hang... There are a lot of misconceptions surrounding hangboarding. One of the most common things I hear from new clients is, “I hear hangboarding is dangerous.” While it’s true that no training is without risk, hangboarding, when done correctly and with proper dosing, is actually safer than climbing. Think of - [HANG BOARD](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/hang-board/) - Parfenov Training HANG BOARD SECTION 4 Parfenov Training Manual __________________________________________ - [Route Drills](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/route-drills/) - ClimbingEndurance Drills JAIN KIM (JK) 3-5 climbs. Pick climbs a few grades below your redpoint ability. After every hand movement, take your other hand off the wall and shake out for 3 counts. The goal is to find optimal resting stances and maximize efficiency. Think about straight arms, drop knees, heel hooks, and hip position. - [FLASH OR TRASH: GRADE CLEAR I](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/flash-or-trash-grade-clear-i/) - ClimbingVolume Drills FLASH OR TRASH: GRADE CLEAR I 60 min. Choose a grade 2-3 below redpoint, which you can usually flash. You have one attempt per climb. If you don’t flash (send first go), move onto the next climb. Goal is to flash as many climbs of that grade as you can, within the 60 - [Volume Drills](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/volume-drills/) - ClimbingVolume Drills POWER HOUR 60 min to send as many hard climbs as you can. This is NOT an endurance workout, so make sure you rest just enough so that pump is not the limiting factor. Total up your V points. WALL BINGO You have 20 minutes to send one climb on each section of - [SPRAY WALL CIRCUIT](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/spray-wall-circuit/) - ClimbingEndurance Drills SPRAY WALL CIRCUIT 5 circuits on a spray wall or systems board with 5-10′ rest in between. Spend some time at the beginning of the session coming up with a good 20-25 move boulder. Don’t worry so much about the direction you are climbing in, but rather focus on individual moves. Think of - [Endurance Drills](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/endurance-drills/) - ClimbingEndurance Drills ADAM ONDRA (AO) DRILL 3 rounds with 5–10′ rest. For each round, pick a 7–9 move climb you have done that is 1–2 grades below your redpoint limit. Climb it three times in a row with 1-minute rests in between. Add a fourth lap if you have successfully completed the first three laps. - [UP-DOWN-UPS](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/up-down-ups/) - ClimbingEndurance Drills UP-DOWN-UPS BOULDER VERSION 5 rounds with 5–10′ rest. Up-climb a hard boulder, down-climb an easy boulder, then up-climb a medium boulder, all without touching the ground. If options are limited, up-climb the same boulder both times (cave climbs are especially good for this!). ROUTE VERSION 3 rounds with 5–10′ rest. Up-climb a hard - [ROUTE REPEATS](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/route-repeats/) - ClimbingEndurance Drills ROUTE REPEATS 3 sets with 10 min rests. Variation on limit routes. Get on a difficult route that you can climb at least halfway. Climb until you fall or pump out, lower and retie as fast as possible, then climb again from the ground and go until you fall. Add a third round - [FOOTCUTS](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/footcuts/) - ClimbingFootwork Drills FOOTCUTS 10 min. Aim for climbs 2-4 grades below redpoint, preferably on a moderately (30-50 degree) overhanging wall. Two rules for every hand move you make (skip holds if it makes this easier!) 1) Intentionally cut feet (think: drive off foothold) 2) Sticky toes when you reel feet back in. Land in the - [Chalk Bag](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/chalk-bag/) - EquipmentChalk Bag There are two types of chalk bags: CHALK BAG For beginners, a chalk bag with a waist strap is a great option. It works for both bouldering and longer rope routes (hence the strap!). Chalk bags and chalk are available at most gyms or online retailers. A lightweight, non-bulky option is ideal. CHALK - [Equipment Harness](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/equipment-harness/) - EquipmentHarness Harness: A harness is essential for rope climbing! Most commercially available harnesses are suitable as long as they have a belay loop and are UIAA approved. Extra gear loops are unnecessary unless you are lead or trad climbing outdoors. Be sure to measure your waist and leg circumference before ordering a harness. - [Prehab Wrists CURL](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/prehab-wrists-curl/) - PrehabWrists WRIST CURL Sit in a chair and rest your elbows on your thighs, keeping your shoulders in a neutral, relaxed position. Hold a small (2.5–10 lb) dumbbell with a supinated grip, with your thumb facing out. Slowly bend your wrist up and down. REVERSE WRIST CURL Sit in a chair and rest your elbows - [Prehab Shoulders](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/prehab-shoulders/) - PrehabShoulders LATERAL RAISE Start with dumbbells at your side. Brace your core and keep your back neutral. While keeping a slight bend in your elbows, raise the dumbbells to the side until your arms are parallel to the floor. Lower back down in a controlled manner. Do not shrug the weights up using your traps. - [Autoregulation & the RPE Scale](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/autoregulation-the-rpe-scale/) - Keeping a Workout JournalAutoregulation & the RPE Scale Take a moment to familiarize yourself with Mike Tuchscherer’s RPE scale (following page). RPE (rate of perceived exertion) is how hard something feels to you. It is a subjective measure of strength at a given time. While it is subjective, it is also quantifiable, and once you - [True Coach App](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/true-coach-app/) - Reading Your CalendarTrue Coach App 01 All calendars are done through True Coach and are meant to be used in conjunction with the videos on True Coach as well as the Training Manual. 02 Workout categories correspond to categories in the Training Manual. 03 All exercises are listed as Sets x Reps (Weight) with Rest - [Hip Thrusters](https://parfenovtraining.com/brochures/hip-thrusters/) - ClimbingHip Thrusters The goal of this drill is to begin to utilize hip drive and momentum, rather than upper body strength, to propel yourself on bigger dynamic moves. This drill is best done on an overhanging wall (35-50*) or Kilter Board. 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