Parfenov Training

Climbing Skills & Drills

Climbing

Skills & Drills

VOLUME BOULDERS

This is NOT endurance training but an opportunity to focus on technique and movement on moderately difficult climbs. The goal is to complete as many climbs as possible with perfect form within 60 minutes. You can do climbs in sets of 2–3 for an added pump.

Work within a grade range between power endurance and limit boulders, typically a few grades below your redpoint limit. For example, if you climb V8, do not exceed V6. Start with an extended warm-up (V0, V1, V2, etc.), repeating each climb at least twice until you reach the upper end of your range. Once at your top grade, rest 3–5 minutes between attempts and ensure you are not falling on any climbs.

VOLUME ROUTES

This is NOT endurance training but a chance to focus on technique and movement on somewhat easier climbs. The goal is to complete as many climbs as possible with perfect form within 60 minutes. You can do climbs as doubles or up-downs for an added pump.

Work within a grade range a few letter grades below your redpoint limit. For example, if you are a 5.12c climber, do not exceed 5.12a. Start with a progressive warm-up, beginning lower than where you would typically start. Once at your top grade, ensure you rest 5–8 minutes between attempts and avoid falling on any climbs.