Parfenov Training

Endurance Drills

Climbing

Endurance Drills

ADAM ONDRA (AO) DRILL

3 rounds with 5–10′ rest. For each round, pick a 7–9 move climb you have done that is 1–2 grades below your redpoint limit. Climb it three times in a row with 1-minute rests in between. Add a fourth lap if you have successfully completed the first three laps. This is a drill Adam Ondra does regularly with 8a–8b (V11–V13) climbs!

POWER TRIPLES

3 sets with 5–7′ rest. Pick a steep, harder boulder problem, 2–3 grades below your redpoint. Climb the problem three times in a row, with 10-second rests in between laps (=one set). Rest 5–7 minutes after this set. Repeat with two more climbs, for a total of three sets.

BOULDER EMOM

6 min. EMOM = Every Minute on the Minute. Choose a climb 2–3 grades below your redpoint, preferably steep with comfortable holds. Set a timer and try to climb the climb at the start of each minute. The faster and more efficiently you climb, the more rest you will have before the next round. If you fall toward the start, hop back on where you fell. If you fall toward the top, rest for the remainder of the minute. Really try to push yourself here; it should feel close to maximal!