Parfenov Training

FLASH OR TRASH: GRADE CLEAR I

Climbing

Volume Drills

60 min. Choose a grade 2-3 below redpoint, which you can usually flash. You have one attempt per climb. If you don’t flash (send first go), move onto the next climb. Goal is to flash as many climbs of that grade as you can, within the 60 min time limit. Rest as long as needed between climbs to really make each attempt count.

60 min. Choose a grade 2-3 below redpoint, which you can usually flash. You have two attempts per climb. If you don’t flash (send first go), try one more time. If you don’t send second go, move on. Goal is to flash as many climbs of that grade as you can, within the 60 min time limit. Rest as long as needed between climbs to really make each attempt count. Two attempts so you can push the grade.

3-5 climbs with 2-3’ rest. Choose a boulder problem you have not previewed or climbed before (ie. onsight). Set 60 seconds on a timer and start the timer as soon as you look at the climb. You will have 60 seconds to read + climb the boulder. The goal is to climb confidently and decisively, even if you don’t get the beta right, and make it look as though you have climbed it before. No second-guessing, backtracking, or do-overs. You have one attempt, make it count. Rest a few minutes after each climb then move onto the next one.