Parfenov Training

Route Drills

Climbing

Endurance Drills

JAIN KIM (JK)

3-5 climbs. Pick climbs a few grades below your redpoint ability.

After every hand movement, take your other hand off the wall and shake out for 3 counts. The goal is to find optimal resting stances and maximize efficiency. Think about straight arms, drop knees, heel hooks, and hip position.

REST FINDER

Pick two longer boulders near your redpoint ability. Pretend each is part of a longer route and that you need to find two distinct rests in order to send the route.

Figure out these rests BEFORE you get on the boulder and try to shake out and stay on each rest for at least 15-20 seconds. Play around with what works best on each particular rest: quick alternating shakes or longer shakes. The goal is to find optimal resting stances and maximize efficiency. Think about straight arms, heel hooks, and hip position. Change your foot stance as you switch hands if that helps shift more weight into your legs.