Parfenov Training

Skills & Drills

Climbing

Skills & Drills

WARM-UP

Climbing-specific warm-ups should only begin after completing dynamic stretches and band exercises. The warm-up should be progressive, following a pyramid-style scheme (e.g., 4 V1, 3 V2, 2 V3, 1 V4 for a V5 climber). Start with juggy, dynamic climbing and finish with fingery, static climbing. Aim for a total of 10–25 minutes.

LIMIT BOULDERS

Pick problems on varied terrain (unless specified) at your redpoint limit and project them one at a time. It should be challenging to link more than three moves in one attempt, with 3–5 minute rests between longer burns (about 1 minute per move). Strength, not endurance, should be the limiting factor. Leave some energy for the rest of the workout—don’t exhaust yourself completely!

LIMIT ROUTES

Pick routes at your redpoint limit and project them one at a time. It should be challenging to link more than 10–12 moves in a single attempt, with 3–5 minute rests between burns. Both strength and power endurance should be limiting factors. Low pointing (starting partway up and climbing to the top) is a key tactic and a great complement to redpoint (ground-up) burns. Leave some energy for the rest of your workout—don’t exhaust yourself completely!