Parfenov Training

STICKY HANDS

Climbing

Movement Drills

STICKY HANDS

Pick 3–5 climbs a few grades below your redpoint ability. One rule: wherever your hand first touches a hold, you must keep it in that position to do the next move (you ARE allowed to match). Pretend that it is superglued to the hold. Focus on catching holds precisely on the best part of the hold, and moving off that hand even if you don’t catch it perfectly (the margin for error is a lot higher than you think!). Jump down and try again if you readjust. No cheating!

DOUBLE TAKES

10 min, climbs 2–4 grades below redpoint. For each climb, climb once normally, then rest 1–2 minutes, then re-climb with better technique and efficiency. Focus on not readjusting, precise toe placement, hip position relative to the wall, sinking into your feet, etc. The goal is to make the second lap better than the first!