Types of Grips

There is no right or wrong way of gripping a hold. Whatever works best. But for training purposes, it is important to pay attention to hand position, particularly whether or not the index finger is in flexion or extension. Unless otherwise specified, the thumb should never go over the index finger or hold during hangboarding. During climbing sessions, however, this is your strongest grip and is referred to as a full or closed crimp. You may cycle through grips (including three-finger variations, pockets, etc.) during the course of your training. The following pages cover three of the most effective protocols.